how to control garlic pests


We welcome you to garliccare, here we try to answers all you question about garlic and how to grow garlic, plant garlic, and garlic recipes. But this article or guide will talk about how to control garlic pests in garlic garden or garlic farm.

Garlic is a foul-smelling, intense bulb. For this reason, it is wise to assume that most insects will leave him alone.

Even used in the garden as pest control, roses, peppers and tomatoes are planted as an adjunct to repel annoying insects.

But we think it’s delicious, but why not bugs? There are scary bugs that are resistant to sulfuric woodpeckers in garlic.



In this article, we will look at the top five insects that can harm this fragrant member of the genus and how to control garlic pest.


There are several types of bulb mites that infest garlic and other alum, but researcher Agniskka Mazar, Brian Rector et al. According to researchers, in an article published in the Journal of Experimental and Applied Ecology, dried bulb mites are the most important and widespread garlic pest.

Dried bulb mites are in the same technological class as spiders and ticks. This endangered species is considered an aerophied mite, although its scientific name is Essaria tulip.

Dried bulb mites are usually 0.3 mm long or less when ripe and look like small coiled insects.

They go through their entire life cycle in just one to two weeks, so you’ll probably see them at every stage – from eggs to larvae and pupae and adults – at any time of the year. If you have a strong magnifying glass, make sure.

These mites are spent on preserved cloves or in the autumn on garlic planted land.

True to their name, dried bulb mites feed only on bulbs: garlic, tulips, onions and lilies as appropriate.

These are feasts between layers of garlic cloves or inside and inside the leaves, often occurring fathers. Other symptoms of dry bulb mite infestation include crooked, stunted leaves and delayed development beyond a certain point.

The other large mites that feed on garlic are the miniature bulbs of the genus Rhizoglyphus, especially R. Echinopas. These bulbous cells look like soft, wet pearls, have four pairs of legs and grow in size from 0.5 to 1 mm in length.

Like the dried bulb mite, it also completes its life cycle in two weeks. Its eggs are white and oval in shape.

The larvae grow with three pairs of legs, but the nymphs and adults have four sets.

Plants infested by bulb mites often stagnate – or you don’t notice anything until the cloves are stored and rotted.

If you notice brown spots and rot in the wrappers and cloves, you can put both types of mites at the top of the suspicious list.

With all kinds of help the females lay eggs on the leaves of your tree and when they open the eggs they release dozens of hungry larvae which can destroy your crop.

Larvae, nymphs and adult mites will feed on every part of the bulb, whether it is in the ground or cut.

Even if your pet puzzle is hit once, you can still eat what is left of its cloves, but it is best to treat them before they ruin your crop.


Bulb mites are resistant to chemical pesticides, so handling them with cultural, predatory and organic pest control methods is your best bet.

Growing mites can live in the soil, so it’s important to avoid rotating your crops and planting allium in the same area for the next four years.

Don’t specify the bed raised as your garlic bed forever. Instead, plant your garlic there one year, replace it with carrots the next year and much more.

Use only the same raised bed or other planting area – or the same soil – to grow allium again after four years.

But this is not the end. It is also important to avoid planting allium after growing brassicasi, corn, wheat or grass in the same area, as these also harbor mites.

According to experts in the Integrated Pest Management Program at the University of California, soaking cloves in warm water for 10 to 20 minutes for 10 to 20 minutes after planting can reduce the risk of their insects or existing eggs being infected.

They also note that it can inhibit germs and cause more damage in water temperatures than 132 degrees Fahrenheit.

Killing existing mites or eggs for 10 to 20 minutes before planting can reduce the risk of infection.

They also note that it can inhibit germs and damage clove tissues with water temperatures of 132 degrees Fahrenheit. So keep the cooking thermometer in hand.

You can also manage insects by introducing beneficial predatory insects such as Radgwart, Dalotia correa.

Shoot and destroy infected plants, then release one to two live beetles per square foot of infected area.

You can buy arabico organic radgwort in 100 packs for small gardens, up to 3000 per pack for large crops.

These beetles will not harm your garden but they will do well with bulb mites.

You can also use organic pesticides to spray the entire growing area according to the package directions, like these bonid neem oil products from Arabico Organics.


Allium lifminers, Phytomyza gymnostomas are small yellow and black flies that have small white eggs on the underside of the leaves.

When these eggs are laid in the larvae, the tunnel of 8 mm long white yellow mangoes eats the leaves. They continue to do this as they transform into 3.5-mm long reddish-orange pupae.

They will enter the bulbs themselves.

The white, curved scribbles and holes in the stems and leaves will alert you to the presence of this unfortunate little creature.


If liftminators are a known problem in your area, consider installing floating covers to keep adults from flying away from your crop.

Be sure to set them up just after planting in the spring. You can also set them up during fall trees, as leaf miners often look for host alum for overwinter and you don’t want them to pick your garlic crop.

Keep the area around your plants free of weeds and weeds to limit the spread of thin leaves.

And as soon as you see a taut white line on a leaf anywhere in your garden, remove the leaf immediately.

Continue to inspect the area regularly to make sure that any excess larvae have damaged your plants before they are damaged.

Leafminers multiply rapidly, especially in hot weather, when their life cycle can take less than two weeks, often ending with keeping mature adults.

As predators, the female parasitic wastes (Digilephas isia) find the leaf larvae, paralyze them, and lay eggs in the larvae. Cane larvae feast on lieutenant larvae.

Within a few weeks, the wireless larvae will turn into adult parasitic wastes which will then kill more leaves.

Parasitic wastes for expression in your garden are available from Arabico Organic or your local nursery.

If the insect provides sufficient evidence for pesticide use, use spinosad, a chemical obtained naturally from the soil bacterium Saccharopolyspor spinosa.

This is your best bet because Spinosad is an organic pesticide that does not get rid of beneficial predatory insects as a cause of minimal damage – just like parasitic insects.

You will find spinosad spray available at Arabico Organics.


Some nematodes are beneficial to plants but garlic nematodes, not ditellenchas dipaceae.

These flat, microscopic, soil-living roundworms complete their entire life cycle in about 21 days on the bulbs, stems and leaves of your garlic.

Feeding destroys the plant, the leaves turn yellow and dry out. Damaged bulbs often swell – or swell – so the name “garlic swollen nematode” spreads before it becomes soft and brown, and these become the main areas of fungal infection.


Nematodes can be present in dead and discarded host tissue, so make sure your planting area is free of dead allium plant material.

If you plant allium in one area in one year, re-plant allium there for the next four years.

Since nematodes also like to feed on this crop, you should plant celery, parsley, hydrangeas, flower bulbs and alfalfa for several years.

Keep the garden weed-free, as pests can be present in host weeds – especially Canadian thistle and hairy nightshade – that surround your garlic. They will gladly take a short trip from there to your precious bulbs.

It is important to clean and disinfect your garden tools before and during each planting project. Nematodes may not go very far on their own but they can spread under infected garden tools, gloves and even your favorite garden shoes!

Most nematode infections occur because an infected clove is unknowingly planted in the garden. To make sure the nematodes do not live in your garlic seeds, you can soak the cloves in 120 ° F water for 20 minutes to heat.

Any existing insects or eggs at high temperatures should be killed. Keep in mind, however, that experts at the University of Maine Cooperative Expansion do not recommend doing this without professional equipment. Instead, buy heat-treated seed garlic from a trusted source.

As a hunter, remember the beneficial nematodes I mentioned earlier? Now is the time to try and introduce them to your infected garlic patch

Try dropping this packet of five million live SF nematodes (Steinernemefelti) from Arabico Organics.

Arabica suggested adding five million SF nematodes per 1,600 square feet of land. Beneficial nematodes will parasitize the bad ones, killing them.

See our guide to learn more about the use of beneficial nematodes in garden pest control.

If you prefer to use a pesticide, a spray with a high concentration of neem oil can kill parasitic nematodes without harming the benefits.

Mix 1 teaspoon of neem oil and 1/2 teaspoon of dish soap with 1 teaspoon of neem cells to make your own neem oil spray. Mix well and add to a spray bottle, then spray your infected plants until moist.

Apply again as needed once a week.


Unlike nematodes, onion flies (Delia anticoa) are large, about 1 cm long, and they can travel. Well, they can do that whenever they can.

Delia anticoar pupae grow tall in the ground all winter. In the spring, however, they grow from the soil as adult flies that will travel up to a mile and a half to find your garlic plants so that the eggs lay in the surrounding soil or occasionally in the leaves.

Newly roasted larvae or maggots, eating everything: roots, bulbs, stalks and leaves.

Eggs promote cooling temperatures and are destroyed when the first inch of soil reaches a temperature of 95 F. After the larvae hatch, they reach the roots and their nibbling will destroy the entire root system of your tree. The first signs of damage to onion maggots are leaves or stunted leaves.

To find out if flies are in your garden, stick yellow stickers around your crop. If you’re catching five- to seven-millimeter-long slender-bodied flies on the hindquarters, it’s time to prepare some maggots.


Crop rotation must help prevent onion fly – onion fly larvae – from damaging your garlic crop every year. Do not plant allium in the same soil year after year and follow the four year rotation guideline described above.

Also consider sowing garlic in raised beds or containers. Loose, well-drained soil in pots is less favorable for onion flies than garden soil. And since onion flies usually start their annual life cycle in mid-May, now is a good time to see how much your time is trading to keep a few yellow sticky cards in your yard. Try these, available from Arabico Organics.

To prevent mature female onions from spawning eggs – you can make your crop look like white rice grains by planting seeds or planting seedlings as well as ating your crop.

As an extra precaution, consider adding diatomaceous earth to the area around your plants, as any soft-bodied larvae hatch and die. Renew after period rains.

Lucky for you, there are several predatory insects that feed on onion larvae. One of the beneficial live SF nematodes. The other is Staphylococcus, as described above.

If you see onion fly eggs, clean the damaged soil and plants and spray it with pesticides.

For natural pest control options, choose a spinosad-based spray

Most of the chemical pesticides used to treat onion fly insects target larvae and should be given at the time of planting.

You can use strong pesticides like Trigard or Lorsbane when planting, but be careful: they can also kill beneficial insects and they won’t kill the already burnt onion flies.

For this it is better to use a method of controlling predators through beneficial insects.


Measuring less than a millimeter, these tiny insects are common throughout the garden and are a real nuisance to gardeners around the world.

Onion thrips, thrips tabchi and western flower thrips, Franklinella occidentalis, especially attack other members of the genus by sucking the sap from the sap and from the leaves.

The onion thighs are narrow, transparent orange and somewhat reminiscent of bees, but much shorter than just one millimeter in length.

Western flower thrips 1.5 mm long, narrow and has a black striped yellow with golden wings

Both are small, but visible to the naked eye.

Leaves infested by thrips appear as white spotted dots. They can also take a silver tint.

Thrips do not kill the plants instantly, but over time they can do a lot of damage to the overall health of the plant, making it susceptible to disease.


As always, crop rotation is suggested here, as keeping your garlic patch weed free. Thrips can easily switch from your weeds to your garlic plants.

Top water supply (sprinkled irrigation) can help protect the plants from thrips, as these insects thrive in hot, dry conditions.

Once an attack begins, the thrips are best controlled by natural predators such as green lacewings, ladybugs, parasitic whips, tiny pirate bugs, and beneficial SF nematodes. To ensure that there are a number of healthy predators, plant a diverse vegetable garden that attracts beneficial insects.

If you have dandelions in your garden, leave them there! They attract laces, such as saffron, cilantro and aniseed flowers.

Another option is to buy predatory insects from a local nursery or Arabico Organic.

You can try using an insecticidal soap like Arabico Organics for moderate infestation and use spinosad or neem oil spray for deadly insects.

You should avoid harsh chemical pesticides because they can kill beneficial predatory insects, which is one of the best natural protections against damage to home gardeners.


The parasite of garlic begins

You now know the five potential pests of your valuable garlic crop but you can be prepared to resist the destructive creatures. This old adage, ounces of resistance is better than cure, especially true when it comes to keeping your plants free from pests.

By rotating the crop, planting the newly planted seedlings and providing your garlic with adequate soil drainage and water supply, you can avoid many pest problems.

Do you have any questions about garlic bugs? Ask a comment below! And feel free to share your suggestions.

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *